Day 3 (July 13, 2022): (A different) Georgia on my mind!

Having arrived at the hotel at 5:30AM, we finally got to bed at 6AM.  The “plan” was to wake up at 10 and have breakfast before it ended at 11.  Well, having turned off my alarm with no recollection, it was 10:48 when I finally woke up and said, “Pam! Breakfast ends in 12 minutes!”  We looked at each other as if to say, “There’s no way we are going to make breakfast.”  So we went back to sleep and woke at 1:30PM.

We felt badly for having missed a good chunk of our first day in Georgia, but then we rationalized it by acknowledging we hadn’t slept for two whole days, are dealing with a seven-hour time change, and deserved to get caught up on sleep!  It was 3PM when we finally set out in the 37C heat to start our sightseeing of Tbilisi.

We decided to follow a walking tour suggested by Lonely Planet, which was about 4KM long and took a good three hours.  The pictures below detail that walk and show a good overview of Tbilisi, the architecture here, and some of the history.

It was past 7PM when we made it back to the utter joy of our Marriott air conditioning!  We found a restaurant nearby that is well-known for its Georgian cuisine and enjoyed a wonderful Georgian meal of khinkali (dumplings with twisted tops and filled with meat and spices), kebab, and the sweetest tomatoes and cucumber we’ve ever tasted.

Overall first impressions?  We love Tbilisi and the entire Georgian vibe.  This is a place that remains relatively (shockingly) unknown to the West, but its offerings are on par with the rest of Europe.  More to follow tomorrow!

Shota Rustaveli’s statue was the start of our walking tour.  One of the city’s main streets is named for Rustaveli, a medieval Georgian poet.

The Academy of Sciences 

Bronze ballet dancers provide a perfect subject for the fountain in front of the Opera and Ballet Theatre, built in 1896 in Moorish style.  Things are pretty quiet in the performing arts scene in July, so there is nothing on offer right now.


The former Parliament Building was built between 1938 and 1953 under Georgia’s former Soviet government.  In 2012, the Parliament was moved to Kutaisi in northwestern Georgia.  This building was the scene of the death of 19 Georgian hunger-strikers at the hands of Soviet troops in 1989, as the Soviety empire was crumbling.


Even though it is no longer the site of Parliament, it is still a place where protests take place, such as this one today.

Freedom Square was known as Lenin Square in Soviet times.  The last statue of Lenin in the country was toppled here in 1990.  In its place, this monument of Saint George slaying the dragon (see close-up detail of the slaying below) was erected.

We were wondering whether Georgia, which borders Russia, would be sympathetic to Putin’s invasion of Ukraine.  However, we are seeing many signs of support for Ukraine.  And this graffiti message in Freedom Square clearly shows that Georgians are not Putin supporters.  (The white-out above erases an expletive that isn’t appropriate for this blog!). In 2008, Russia took over 20% of the country in a short war.  


All over Tbilisi, you find books for sale along the streets.  This is a typical example, seen in Freedom Square.

This is Old Town, or “Kala” as it is called.  Ornate wooden balconies, such as those seen above, reflect EurAsian influences in the 19th century and earlier.  The Persians were defeated here in 1795, and their influence can still be seen.

Throughout Old Town, you see remnants of the old city walls.  Delapidated yet picturesque buildings, are plentiful.  The archway to the right above reads, “Old City Jail”.

 

Pam, admiring the city walls.



Another example of the EurAsian influence on architecture here, and the ornate wooden balconies for which Tbilisi is known.

We are amazed at the number of public art installations all over Tbilisi!  Public art is often a reflection of the artistic health of a city.  And if the number of such installations is any true indication, then Tbilisi’s art health is doing well!



Tbilisi’s quirkiest building is the crooked clock tower of the Gavriadze Theatre.

Anchiskhati Basilica is the oldest church in Tbilisi, dating to the 6th century.

Cafe Leila, a very charming spot for an air-conditioned drink and snack, is drippy with ornate design.

The Peace Bridge, built in 2010 and designed by an Italian, crosses the Mtkvari River.  Tbilisi is filled with avant garde structures that have gone up in Georgia in the 21st century.  The Peace Bridge symbolizes this development period more than any other structure.

Walking over the river on the Peace Bridge.

The view of the Mtkvari River from the Peace Bridge.


The recently-built Presidential Palace and the (unfinished) concert hall / exhibition centre are two of the most striking buildings on the east side of the Mtkvari River.

The concert hall / exhibition center reminded us of a giant slug!  Or a pasta tube!

The views of Tbilisi get no better than those from the Narikala Fortress, which dominates the Old Town and dates back to the fourth century, when it was a Persian citadel.  A Russian munitions explosion here in 1827 destroyed much of the facility.


The best way to reach the Fortress is by cable car from Rike Park, across the Mtkvari River.  And in the 37C heat, choosing not to walk up was a smart move!  We did, however, walk down.

More views of Narikala Fortress.



Near the Fortress, on Sololaki Hill, is the Mother of Georgia statue, built in 1958.


The view of the eastern side of the Mtkvari River, showing the steeps cliffs above the river, which historic buildings cling to, including Metekhi St. Virgin Church (left, in the photo).


Sioni Cathedral of the Dormition, built in the sixth and seventh centuries, was the main cathedral of the Church of Georgia until 2004, when the Holy trinity Cathedral (which is on tomorrow’s list of sites to visit) was opened.


Amazing cafes line many streets along the Mtkvari River.

The sticks you see hanging are called churchkhela, a traditional Georgian sweet treat.  Think nuts, seeds, and fruit strung on a thread, and dipped in condensed mulberry juice.

This is the Tbilisi Marriott, where we are staying.

Cheese factors into the typical Georgian menu in a very big way!  These cheese sticks and sauce were delicious!

These are khinkali - Georgian dumplings filled with meet and spice, with twisted tops.  The restaurant where we ate dinner is known for its exceptional khinkali.